I’m Just Dotty About Dora
The ensemble includes
. a skirt with attached panties
I used Red and White WW yarn and 5.mm(shoes only) and 5.5mm hooks I would love to see this done in other colours as well. The yarn is carried along every dotted row.
You also need an elastic waistband. (make a circle of quarter inch elastic that fits comfortably over the doll’s thighs)
You can add trims of whatever sort suit you. I am a button fanatic and it shows.
Skirt with attached panties. Note: I can’t sew simple cotton panties any more but I would suggest that you do this if you can and then you would not have to make the attached panties if you don’t like the bulk.
Begin by working 40 sc in White around the elastic waistband and join. (join at the end of every round)
Row 1: sc in 3, change to red, sc in 1, change back to white. Work around the skirt working 3 in W. and 1 in R.
Row 2: work around in DC but work a dc increase in the middle sc of the 3 white sc group.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have 8 rows made. The ‘dots’ may not always work out just right so make do as you wish.
Attached panties… go to underside of skirt and start with the 1st sc over the elastic. Work a base row of FPsc around.
Row 1–2: Dc evenly around.
Row 3: You will work a DC increase in the first and last stitches and in stitches 20 and 21 (this is basically Centre Front and Centre Back). For the rest of the stitches, work in hdc. (this row helps to form a crotch area later on)
Row 4-5: Dc evenly around
Row 6: Hdc in the first 22 stitches then join with sl st to 1st hdc, continue to work hdc in the last 22 stitches and join last st to 23rd st.. Break off thread but leave enough yarn to securely stitch this crotch seam. Tidy all ends.
You may want to add button loops as you go.
With White and 5.5mm hook, chain 31
Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook and next 3. 2sc in next 2 ch, sc in 3, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in 8sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in 3, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in 4.
Row 2: Sc in 5, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in 5, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in 10, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in 5, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in 5.
Row 3: Sc in 6, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in 7, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in 12, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in 7, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in 6.
Row 4: Sc in 7, 2 sc in next sc, (ch 4 sk 2 sc, sc in next) 4 times.2 sc in next sc, sc in 14, 2sc in next sc, (ch 4 sk 2 sc, sc in next) 4 times, 2sc in next sc, sc in 7. Note: you may want to work more chain loops for the sleeve cap 0 just watch that you don’t overdo the stitches (11)
Row 5: sc in 9 back sc, ch 4, sc in 18 front sc, ch 4, sc in 9 back sc. Secure yarn but don’t break off. Attach Red at the other end.
Row 6: Work evenly in sc across with Red. Secure but do not break off yarn.
Row 7-8: With White, sc evenly. Secure W.
Row 9: With Red, sc evenly across. Break off Red.
Row 10: sc evenly across.
Row 11: Work dc in 3, 3dc in next across row. (It will not likely work out evenly)
With White ch 3
Row 1: work 9 dc into 3rd chain from hook (10 dc)
Row 2: work 2 sc (inc) with white in stitch, work 1 sc in Red in next st around.
Row 3: work 1dc in 1, 2 dc in next around.
Row 4: work the dot pattern of sc in W and 1 sc in R around the row. Make do if necessary.
Row 5-6: Repeat rows 3 and 4
Row 7: Work dc in 2, 2dc in next around.
Row 8: work dc in 2, dc dec in next (Work the decreases over the increases from the last row)
Row 9: Working with Red, work sc in 9, sc dec in next around (however the numbers work)
Row 10: Repeat Row 9 in white but stagger the decreases.
Row 11-12: work evenly in sc. Work Red then White. Break off and tidy ends.
Add a decorative trim if you wish.
Shoes…Use 5.mm hook
With red, ch 5
Sole Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in next, hdc in next, 5 hdc in end chain, hdc in next, sc in next, 3 sc in beginning st. (You should have 5 stitches at each end.)
Sole Row 2: work sc around working 2 sc in each end stitch to keep the shoe flat.
Start uppers.. flip sole good side down and work a FPsc in every stitch around. Join and break off Red.
Attach white at heel (the end you just finished)
Work a row of sc making a decrease in each side at the instep area.
Work sc to the point where you want your strap to start. Chain 5 for strap and sl st back along ch 5, continue in sc working 4 sc decreases at the toe area. When you get to the point where the strap should join, work a sl st into end of ch and continue with sc to end. Join and break off.
You can get away with making both shoes this same way but if you really want to make an ‘opposite’ shoe you can …
Work to where the strap will be joined at the side and work a ch 1. continue around shoe as before but now form the ch5 strap and join in the ch 1 space before sl stitching back along the ch 5.
Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2007
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Edited by darski, 26 March 2013 - 06:44 PM.