Ode to Florence– 18” doll
This outfit was done as a special request but I did it because it had been on my list of “To Do” items anyway. I plan to add the (mandatory) cape but this took a long time as it is and I didn’t want to keep it back any longer.
So here we go…
I used WW white yarn and a 4.5mm hook for this.
We begin at the waistband and then work the skirt down and the bodice up from there.
Note, I begin with a chain 2 as the first DC in a row, if you prefer to ch 3, … works for me so have at it.
Start: Chain 4, join to form a ring for a button loop. Ch 39, hdc across. (38 hdc)
Row 1: (skirt) ch 2, dc in same st, dc around making 7 more increases including the last stitch.
Row 2: dc around but work increases in 1st and last stitch and *between stitches* for each increase on the previous row. Join with sl st in the 3rd dc of the row.
Row 3: work dc around working increases in each increase from the row below. Work through two layers where they come together at the end.
Rows 4-7: work even in dc. Break off
Find the CB stitch and move one stitch to the right to join yarn in back loop. Ch 2 and work the next dc TBL. Work around in dc to last two, work in remaining loops to make 1 dc in 1st, 2dc in next.
Work even in dc and break off. Tidy yarn ends.
Go back to the waistband. Attach yarn next to button loop.
Work 3 rows of dc evenly working buttonholes if you plan to use them.
Divide for fronts and back: 10 st for each front and 18 sts for the back.
In each section, work two rows evenly then develop 4 stitches for the shoulders using one row of dc and one of hdc. Remember to leave long tails for sewing shoulders together.
ON the back, I chose to work all the way across the shoulders by using hdc, sc and sl st to from the back…It did provide a nice fit but see what works for you.
Sew your shoulder seams.
Sleeves: Attach the yarn at the back and work 3 rows where you work sc and hdc in the bottom portion and DC along the top. In addition, work sc dec at the armpit and in the dc portion as well if necessary to give a nice shape to the sleeve.
Work 4 more rows of dc evenly.
Cuff: turn and work hdc around working at least 3 increases so that the cuff will fold back over the sleeve. Break off and tidy ends
Neck and collar:
Work a row of sc (or two) around the neck edge to bring it in a bit. Do double decreases in corners as needed.
Work 1FPsc in st, 2 FPsc in next around the neck edge.
Ch 2, work dc in each stitch at the fronts, Tr in every stitch at the back and end with a hdc in the last stitch. Break off and tidy ends. You could work another row of hdc (increasing if necessary) if you want the collar wider.
Pockets: (With smaller hook (3mm)Chain 7…work 6 rows of 6 sc to form each pocket and break off with a long tail to sew to skirt.
Details… I could not find a clock bead to make a Pin on Watch that was quite common in Nursing circles in days of old. I used the little heart bead to simulate the watch.
If you can find a miniatures store, a pair of scissors would be nice in the pockets or attached at the belt.
The Nursing Cap:
Extra needs – black chenille yarn or any black yarn for RN band.
Chain 6, 2hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc across and 2hdc in last ch, turn
Row 2 -3: 2 hdc in 1st and last st, hdc in others.
Row 4-6: work even in hdc and break off.
Go back to first row and attach yarn at one edge. Chain 10, work hdc across established rows, ch 10, join to other side of beginning edge.
(this just joins the brim and the back and avoids the need to put in buttons or pins to actually keep the cap together during play)
Row 1:Work hdc across making 2 hdc in each ch, 2hdc in first hdc, hdc to last hdc, 2 hdc in last hdc, 2hdc in each chain.
Work 5 rows even in hdc.
Row 7: (Fold row) work dc across but work 2 dc increases at the point where the cap will turn back. These increases will emphasize the change in direction of the cap from side to front to side again.
Rows 8-9: work hdc across with one increase at each point of increase on previous row that is closest to the front. Secure white. (This read badly before as you make two increases but not 4 as on the last row so I have edited it)
Join black chenille and work one row of had across. Break off black.
Continue for 2 more rows with white hdc. Work an increase in each point for emphasis on the last row. Break off and tidy ends. Add buttons to back and find a method of keeping the hat in place. A small comb would likely work. I had a small (DIY) barrette backing but I don’t think I would use it too often on the hair these dolls have.
Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2007
A copy of Florence Nightingale’s “Notes on Nursing” can be obtained here:
This book raised and set the standards for nursing.
here is the long-awaited cape pattern as well
I wrote up the pattern quite some time ago but then it took me a while to finish the actual cape so it got lost in a pile of pattern notes. <my bad>
Using small amount of red and some blue WW yarn and a 4.mm & 5.mm hooks.
This pattern really did create the look of strong shoulders that I wanted in this pattern so it is not the usual cape pattern that I would have tried.
With Red and 4.mm hook…
Chain 5, join to form ring, ch 25 and hdc across. Break off red.
Attach blue in stitch next to button loop and work sc around both sides of the red collar piece. Work 3sc into both “corners” of the end .
Change to 5 mm hook
Row 1: work FPsc in 1, 2FPsc in next around collar piece. (I have 39 sc)
Row 2: hdc around ending with 2hdc in last (40 hdc)
Row 3: hdc around but work 3hdc in stitches 10 and 11 and in stitches 29 and 30.
Use yarn or something to mark these 6 stitches on each side.
Row 4:hdc across but work 2 hdc in all of the marked stitches.
Row 5: (hdc in 5, 2 hdc in next) twice, 2 dc in next 5, 2 hdc in next, hdc in 19, 2 hdc in next, 2 dc in next 5, (2hdc in next, hdc in 5) twice.
Row 6: hdc evenly across
Row 7: Work dc in marked stitch area but otherwise work hdc across
Row 8 to next to last row – hdc evenly across.
Last Row: DC across evenly
You may want your cape longer or shorter so that is why the directions read as they do.
Attach a suitable “uniform” button at neck.
Tidy all ends.
Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2007
I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.
However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.
Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.
Edited by darski, 13 February 2013 - 04:15 PM.
needed re-saying mistake fixed