Spring and Summer for girls to enjoy while wearing pink.
Sunnie’s summer frock (18 inch doll)
Uses Pink, White and Navy WW yarn or colours of your choice.
DNBO = do not break off
I crochet loosely so this could have been a bit bigger than it is. You could add 4 stitches , one in each back and 2 in the front.
Don’t forget to allow for a closure method
Row 1: With Pink, ch 21, sc in 2nd ch from hook, (ch1, sc in next chain) across end with sc in last chain. (20 sc and 19 ch 1 sp)
Row 2: DC in every sc and ch 1 space (39 dc)
Row 3: dc in 3, 2 dc in next. Break off Pink
Row 4: attach white… sc in 1st, hdc in next 3, dc in next 3, sk 10 st, dc in 3, hdc in 3, sc in 2, hdc in 3, dc in 3, sk 10 st, dc in 3, hdc in 3, sc in last
Row 5: hdc across but increase one at underarms.
Row 6: hdc across, secure white but DNBO
Row 7: attach Navy, work hdc across working between the stitches and working 2 hdc in one stitch at underarms. Secure navy but DNBO
Row 8: with White, work as row 7 but break off white. Work increases in increases of row 7.
Row 9: with Navy, work hdc in one, 2hdc in next across.
Row 10: work even in hdc across
Row11: turn and sc across.
Row 12: DC in 3, 3dc in next, across. Join (all rows from now on)
Row13: sc around
Row 14 - 18: Dc evenly around. Finish off. Weave in ends.
Kaylie’s Sun suit.
She is a 15” CPK Baby, chest is 11 inches.
This sun suit is generous and will fit over the diaper. My elastic band got a little titch tighter than I would have liked but it works. Just watch yours so it doesn’t happen to you.
with Navy : Make a waistband with elastic and work 48 sc into the ring formed. Your join spot will be your Centre Front. (the pink Join will be at CB)
Row 1-2: dc around secure Navy but DNBO
NOTE: mark your sides or count your stitches so that you work TBL in the 24 back stitches on alternate rows. i.e. when working row 2, 4 and 6. This is the base for your ruffles on the back panty.
Row 3: attach Pink at CB and work DC between stitches. Secure Pink but DNBO
Rows 4-6: alternate pink and blue DC rows between stitches. Break off the pink after row 5.
Leg Trim … with Navy join front to back with a sl st crotch and then work( ch 3 sc in next) around the leg. When you come back to the beginning, make a second join and work the trim around the second leg.
Mark out 9 stitches at the centre front. Work hdc in these stitches with Navy, work a second row of hdc in Navy. Break off and attach Pink,
Work 3 hdc rows in pink but work a decrease at each side on the last row. Break off.
Ties… with Navy, ch 30, hdc across top of bib then ch 30 and break off.
The bunny motif in White..
Work 6 sc into 2nd ch from hook and join. Work the ears by doing (ch 4 and sl stitching back down to head) twice. Leave a long end to sew to bib front.
Back Ruffles: You will be using those Front Loops that you kept out while working the back
Attach white yarn in the first Front Loop stitch at the top of the sun suit back.
(Ch 3 and sl st into every other loop) across row. DNBO
work a chain 3 and sl st into the first loop on the middle row of Front Loops. work (ch4 sl st in every other stitch) on the two remaining rows. Break off and tidy ends.
Dora’s ensemble – beaded crochet for those willing to try J
Skirt with beaded trim.
Make an elastic waistband and work 40 sc into ring. In this case, your join will happen at a side.
Row 1: starting from side seam work DC around BUT work TR in the 3 stitches at CF and CB
Row 2: dc around working TBL only and working 3 dc into central TR at front and back. This back loop work lets you add the beaded trim. If you are not going to do the trim, then just work as usual.
Row 3: dc around working 2 increases in central (F&B)stitches.
Row 4: Work dc around but work hdc in the front and back stitches as needed to even out the hem edge
Row 5 - 6: DC evenly around. Break off and tidy ends.
Add beaded trim.
Thread 20 white pony beads onto your pink yarn before you begin. Actually, I used white because it fit my motif colours and I had them. Use whatever colour would please your doll-owner. Plastic Pink Rules!!!
Attach pink into a Front Loop stitch.
Chain 3, move a bead up to your hook and work a sc (around the bead)chain 3 again, skip one loop and attach in next with sl st. repeat this around.
Note: because we started with 40 dc, 20 beads should be enough to work a stitch in every other one. You can put more beads on if you just want to be safe as you cannot add them later if you need them.
About the little white top…. I just needed something very small to fit under the sweater and this does it very well. I am going to use this technique to make a sun dress after this. I like how it works.
With my patterns, everything is just a stepping stone to your own creativity.
WW yarn and 5mm hook
Remember to allow for a closure method.
Ch 28, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 ch, ch 5, skip 5 chain, hdc in next 9 ch, ch 5, sk 5 chain, hdc in last 4 ch.
(keep yourself oriented so you know which is the original chain row)
Row 2: work 2 hdc in first st, hdc in 8, 2hdc in next, hdc in 8, 2hdc in next, hdc to end and put 2hdc in last st. (the increases should be at the front side of the armholes… not that it matters but there yah go.
Row 3: work hdc across but work 4 increases (back, 2 in front, other back)
Work 2 more rows even and break off.
Major-ly girlie sweater with personalized bead trim
I did the name beads because I had them (taught crafts at our “Girls of Grace” group. But, it is really, really cute. J
Work a 5 st sc ribbing for 36 rows. DNBO
Work a row of 36 sc along the top of your ribbing
Work 3 rows of HDC evenly.
Mark out your divisions into fronts, sleeves and back as follows
Each Front = 6, Back = 12 and Each Sleeve = 6.
You want the divisions to be clear but when you work each section work an HDC decrease stitch with the nearby sleeve section. This makes a good armhole for adding your set-in sleeve later.
So, with your yarn ready for a front section, you will work hdc in 5 and hdc dec in next two stitches.
Turn and work two more rows of hdc even – 6sts. Break off
Do this same thing with the back over 12 st and the other front over 6 st.
Attach white at right side CF, work hdc in each front st. ch 2, work hdc in back st, ch 2 and work hdc in front stitches.
Work a row of hdc evenly across
Work a row of (FPsc, 2 FPsc in next) across and break off.
Attach white at lower right front edge, ch 3 then dc along front edge and into each FPsc, and down the other front side. If you wish to add the name beads, thread them onto the tail when you finish. I used a white pony bead as ender. Saves weaving in one end
You need to do whatever it takes to make this sleeve fit into the armhole you have created. I will try to give you specific instructions but be ready to ‘make it work’
Work a 3 sc ribbing for 18 rows, join edges with sc and DNBO
Work 18 sc into the tops of the ribbing adding in the extras as you can.
Work 4 rows of hdc evenly
Work 1 row with increase in 2nd and 2nd last stitch.
Sl st in 2, hdc in 14, sc in 1, ch 1 turn,
Sc in 2nd st, hdc across and sc in last
Hdc across with decrease in first and last st.
Hdc dec across ( may not be even)
Round out the sleeve cap with decreases as needed and secure end. Leave a Ve-e-e-e-e-e-ery long tail to sew in the sleeve.
Sew in sleeve and finish ends
Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2007
I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.
However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.
Furthermore, If you choose to use my patterns as a money maker, I do not permit my images to be used for any advertizing of your work. You must make your own item and photograph that. These images are as much a part of my Web image as a designer as the patterns are and I reserve that use to myself alone.
Edited by darski, 22 February 2012 - 09:10 PM.