This set is made with WW yarn (RH Aran Fleck , straw/tan coloured RH and a RH moss green) These yarns tend to be on the finer side of WW yarns so I used 5mm and 4.5mm hooks for these.
The set consists of
Capri cargo pants
Capri cargo pants…
Begin with a ¼ in elastic waistband that will fit your doll
Row 1: work 50 sc into elastic ring
Row 2 -3: work 50 DC even
Row 4: dc in 5, dec, dc in 2, dec, dc in 28, dec, dc in 2, dec, dc in 5. (46dc)
Row 5: dc in 3, dec, dc in 2, dec, dc in 1, dec, dc in 22, dec, dc in 1, dec, dc in 2, dec, dc in 3 (40dc)
Rows 6 – 7: Dc evenly around. At the end of row 7 connect the 1st stitch to the 20th stitch and the 21st stitch to the 40th stitch. Break off thread
Legs: You start with 20 stitches for each leg. As you work around the first row, be sure to work a stitch into the crotch join so you have 21 sts for each leg.
Begin each leg at the side seam so that your cuffs have a slit opening.
For both legs, work a few stitches (at start and end of row) TBL so you can add pockets (I left 5 on one leg and 6 on the other.
Following the notes, work 5 rows of dc even on the 21 stitches. For the last round do not join. (You can add an extra st in the front opening st but not nec.)
attach the yarn in the row above your Loops and work DC into the free loops, connect each row of pockets to the pants with a sl st. Edge the pockets with the moss green for emphasis. Be creative with your pocket styles
Remember to allow for a closure. I worked 3 buttonhole loops by tightly crocheting a ch 6 before beginning a row.
Row 1: Ch 24, work 2 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next. Continue across the chain increasing in every other stitch. (36 hdc)
Row 2: hdc in 5, V-st, hdc in 2, 2hdc in next 2, hdc in 2, V-st in next, hdc in 10, V-st, hdc in 2, 2hdc in next 2, hdc in 2, V-st in next, hdc in 5.
Row 3: hdc in hdc, V-st in V-st.
Row 4: hdc in 2, then DC in hdc , V-st in V-st around to last two st. hdc in 2.
Row 5: Work Dc in dc and into V-st, ch1, dc into next V-st, dc across front and into V-st, ch 1, dc into next V-st, dc to end.
Row 6: Work dc across but work 3 increases near the armholes. One in front, one right at armhole and one just on the back side
Row 7: Work even in Dc
Row 8: work dc in 3, 3dc in next across. Finagle the other end if it doesn’t come out even. Break off and tidy ends.
Attach yarn and work around sleeves in DC.
On the first row, work hdc, then sc in the arm pit area. Work 1 increase in back at top.
On the second row, work hdc in the arm pit area. Work 1 inc. in the top front
Work 2 rows of dc even. Break off. (makes 4 rows for sleeves)
With straw coloured yarn
work standard hat base in Double Crochet for 3 rows
Work 3 rows of dc even
Work (FPsc, 2FPsc) around
Work one row DC in main colour.
Work one row of CC increasing only as needed to keep brim flat. Break off
If you wish to have a lanyard to keep the hat on… Get a long strand of yarn (1 yd) and attach to one side of hat brim into the ridge formed by the Post stitches and find centre of the strand and tie a knot to keep the end in place (you now have two strands together.
Thread the two strands through the two holes (into and out) of the button.
Secure the other end on the other side of the brim as for the first side.
Slide the button up to the chin to keep the hat on and form a knot in the slack area (see photo).
These are so not needed but a cute concept.
Chain 15 and join. Work dc around and join.
Work surface crochet back and forth over 5 stitches to make padding. Break off leaving a long tail that you use to weave into and over the padded area.
Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2007
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Edited by darski, 19 January 2013 - 05:47 PM.