We’ve Got the T-E-A-M
This is a 15 inch doll but she has specific design needs
Use two colours of WW yarn as appropriate to a school near you. I used a 5mm (H) hook
Skirt: Start with Dk Green or your Main colour
Create a 1/4inch elastic waistband…
Row 1: 40 sc around and elastic waistband.
Row 2: Work DC around making a V-stitch (dc, ch 1, dc) in every 5th stitch.. you will have 8 V-st points.
Rows 3–5: Dc in every dc and V-st in every V-st
End out green but do not break off.
Row 6: Join Grey (or your Contrasting Colour) in another spot
Sc between stitches and work (sc ch 1, sc) in every V-st. End out Grey but do not break off.
Row 7: Pick up Green again and…
Sc between stitches and work (sc ch 1, sc) in every V-st. End out Green and break off.
Row 8: Pick up Grey again and…
ch 3, dc in every stitch around working V-st in each ch 1 space. Break off.
Make/attach panties to underside of skirt…
With Green FPsc in every stitch around (40 sc)
Work 5 rows of double crochet joining at the end of each round.
Form Crotch. On the last round, mark the 20th and 21st stitches and when you have joined the last dc to the first, slip stitch into the 20th stitch and then into the 21st stitch and finally into the 40th stitch. Break off.
I really like this effect but I wanted a different effect when I was making the Skating Outfit. You could use this one there if you choose. (It’s all about options )
Top… With Green… Remember to work buttonholes or a closure as you wish.
Chain 31 (start in 2nd chain from hook)
Row 1: sc in 5, 2sc in 5, sc in 10, 2 sc in 5,sc in 5. Secure Green but do not break off
Row 2: (With Grey)sc in every sc. Break off Grey.
Row 3: (start with ch 3 as 1st dc)Pick up Green and dc in every stitch across.
Row 4: dc in 5, V-st, dc in 8, V-st, dc in 10, V-st, dc in 8, V-st, dc in 5.
Row 5 -6: Dc in every dc, V-st in every V-st. Mark the V-sts on row 6 if it helps.
Row 7: Divide out the sleeve stitches…
Sc in every stitch including the 1st V-st, sc in next V-st, sc in every stitch to next V-st, sc in next V-st, sc across.
Row 8: Dc in every stitch across but increase one at side seams. Try to set the increase right at what would be the side seam. Mark these increases if you need to.
Row 9: Dc to st before increase, ch 3, sl st into increase stitch (pick one) ch 3, dc in every stitch to next increase, ch 3, sl st into increase stitch, ch 3, dc in every stitch to end. Break off
The Team Letter.
With grey, ch 7, sl stitch in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in 2 ch, chain 5, sl stitch in 2nd ch from hook and next 3. finish with 3 sl stitches in the last three original chains. Leave a lo-o-ong tail to be able to sew the letter to the sweater.
Make 2 pom-poms in half green and half grey but use a long (doubled) thread to tie off so that you can make handles for them.
White cotton tennies…
Row 1: Chain 7 and work sc around chain. Work 4 sc in heel (start) end and 5 sc in toe end.
Row 2: work sc in heel area and hdc around rest of sole. Work 2 sc in 3 sts at heel end and 2 hdc in 4 sts at toe end.
Start Uppers …
Row 1: Chain 1 and flip sole so right side is down. Work FPhdc in every stitch around sole staying at outer edge and join.
Row 2: find and mark the central hdc of the toe area.
Work hdc along side making one decrease, but stop 3 stitches before marked central hdc. Work a 3dc cluster (a double decrease) in next 3 sts, hdc in next st <chain 4, 2 tr, ch 4 into hdc just made> (this forms the tongue) work a 3dc cluster in next 3 sts, hdc to end. Join and break off.
Because the hdc can get stretched out of shape from so many stitches worked into it I tied the working yarn tightly around the base of the tongue to attach it and complete the shoe upper.
So attach yarn as suggested and then
Work 2 hdc, sc around and end with 2 hdc. Break off.
Get two strands of yarn – one of each of your colours and use a tapestry needle to “Tie” the shoes. The shoes can be put on and off with the ties in place so it might be good to secure the bow with a drop of glue.
Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2007
I do not have a problem with people/groups using my patterns to make a little extra money by physically making them and selling the items they make.
However, I do not permit the selling of my patterns for money. I have once given permission for a booklet to be made of them for a charitable sale and I may do so again *if I am asked* and if it is for a church, charity or school type group. But first you have to ask.
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Edited by darski, 26 March 2013 - 07:57 PM.