PJ Par-tay… 18” doll
The PDF is here: PJs 18inch doll.pdf 390.95KB 1558 downloads
You need coordinating colours of WW yarn and some fake fur yarn as well.
Hooks: 4.5mm, 5.mm and 8.mm
Elastic waistband and various buttons, trims and ties. You also need a small amount of stuffing for the pillow. I had some poly batting to hand but yarn ends work just as well.
I should mention… The jammies looked really cute in real life but in the pics the patterning of the varigated yarn is not so good looking.
WW yarn and 5.mm hook
The yarn for the jammies is a RH Jeweltone yarn – Alabaster
Legs… DNBO after 2nd leg.
Row 1-5: dc evenly
Rows 6-10: inc by one at beginning or end on ea row
Your Torso rows begin and end at Centre Front.
T Row 1: Align the two legs and join with 6 sc, ch 1. Begin working in dc around the leg sections, Put the first dc in the same stitch as the sc join.
It might be helpful here to go to the back to Mark out your increase stitches. Put markers in the stitches that are 7 from the Centre Back join on each side.
Dc to your first marker… work [2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 2dc, 1dc, 2dc] over the five stitches, work 1 TR into the CB join, work [ ] again then continue in dc to beginning of row being sure to put stitch in sc-joined stitch on this side, join.
Row T2-T4: work evenly in dc.
Row T5: work dc but work 1 decrease on each side of back (2 decreases).
Row T6: work a row of sc around an elastic waistband. Join. Break off and tidy all ends.
Ch 52 and join to form ring
Row 1: dc evenly
Rows 2-5: dc making 2 dec per row. Stagger the dec.
From now on you will be working in rows and not rounds. Do not join…
Row 6 and 8: turn, sc evenly.
Row 7 and 9: turn, dc evenly.
Row 10: sc in 9, ch 10, sk 4, sc in 19, ch 10, sk 4, sc in 9,
Row 11: dc in 8, dc dec 6 times, dc in 17, dc dec 6 times, dc in 8, turn … you work in the sc and the chains.
Row 12: sc evenly.
Row 13: work in dc. Make 2 dec on each back section and 3 dec at front.
Sc down rt back edge working button loops if you want them. Sc along left back edge then work a[sc, ch 3] mesh along the neck edge. Sew on buttons and weave a yarn twist through ch 3 loops at neck.
w/ WW yarn and 4.5mm hook ch 6
Row 1: 2sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in 1, hdc in 2, 6 hdc in last, hdc in 2. sc in 1, 1 more sc in beg st. join
Row 2: hdc in 1st. 2 hdc in next 2, hdc in 3, 2 hdc in next 5, hdc in 3, 2 hdc in next 2. break off and tidy all ends.
Tops… w/ 2 strands of fake fur and a 5.mm hook. Att yarn at heel of slipper. Have slipper w/ good side down and work on the inside of the slipper to get the best effect of the fake fur.
Row 1:hdc in ea st. join
Row 2: hdc in 1, hdc dec in next. you are seriously into Braille crochet at this point.
Row 3: sc dec, sc in next 2, sc dec 5 times, sc to last 2, sc dec
2 strands of WW yarn and 8.mm hook
Ch 21, hdc in 2nd ch from hook.
Work evenly in hdc for as many rows as you like for your length.
Last row: sc in 3, ch 21 (or what works for you) sk to last 3 sts. Sc in 3. Break off and tidy ends.
Ties … with suitable yarn, ch 25, sc [as shown] in roll, ch 25 more and break off.
Work sc around chain with 2 sc in each end.
Row 2: again work in sc increasing by 2 at each end.
Continue to work in sc in a spiral without joining until the pillow is the size you want.
Stuff lightly and sc the open end closed. Work a row of some trim style. I did my old faithful ch3 loops.
w/ WW yarn and 4.5mm hook ch 22
round 1: 3 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc to last ch, 5 hdc in last, sc back to beg st, 2 more hdc in beg ch.
round 2-4: work in hdc increasing at ea end to keep piece flat. Break off and tidy ends.
Set up your piece as if it were a finished duffle (as in pic) to determine where your ends would be. Att yarn and work across in hdc joining to the sides as you go. Work enough rows to ‘finish’ the side.
Repeat on the other side but continue in hdc to form the covering to go over the other side. Work the last row in sc and make button loops as you go.
NOTES for the blue pj set.
I started the same (ch 52) but only worked 3 decrease rows. The rows of white sc (worked evenly) seemed to make this a better plan.
For the sleeves, I worked a ch 12 instead of the ch 10. I wanted more ease there. I then worked more decreases at the neckline and did not need to use the tie to bring in the neckline.
Copyright: Darlene Cutler - 2010
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Edited by darski, 18 February 2016 - 01:11 PM.